Old Town: My Favourite Part of Nice

My favourite part of Nice is the old town. Its beautiful, cobbled streets, brightly coloured buildings and romantic shabbiness make it feel like another world. Reflecting Nice's history, the Italian influence is plain to see. From the architecture to the narrow passageways to the gelaterias, it oozes franco-italian charm. 

Away from the sun's heat, the cool, dark streets are a little oasis in which to lose yourself. You'll see thick-armed mamans shaking out their laundry, chic couples kissing in dark corners and little kids playing with stray dogs. It's wonderful.

Great Petit Dejeuner Part Deux

Another great little cafe for breakfast is Bistrot de L'Opera right near the Opera House, on Rue Saint-Francois de Paule.
It feels very French and less touristy than some other cafes, and does an excellent but simple breakfast.
If you want the traditional croissant, jam and coffee breakfast and you're on a budget, this is your place.
Look out for the swankily dressed customers sipping espresso and their teeny little pooches.

Promenade des Anglais

No trip to Nice is complete without a stroll down Promenade des Anglais. It was so named after English visitors began wintering on the Cote d'Azur and enjoyed a daily stroll by the sea. It feels like a posh (and much warmer) version of Brighton with cyclists, joggers and hot-pants-wearing roller bladers mingling with the ice-creaming eating tourists.
It arcs round the Baie des Anges or Bay of Angels and looking out on the sea in the early morning, you can see how it got its name. The Mediterranean shimmers like a million mosaic tiles and the palm trees sway angelicly in the breeze.
There are lots of benches along the prom where you can pause to take in the sea air or there are plenty of stylish bars down on the beach where you can enjoy a cool glass of ricard or a cafe au lait.

Great Petit Dejeuner

If you want to eat out for le petit dejeuner in Nice, this cafe, on the corner of Rue Louis Gassin next to the Marche aux Fleurs is great. For about 15E for two you can have coffee, lots of different types of scrumptious breads and jams, while watching the world go by. It gets super busy so if they haven't got any tables free why not stroll around the market while you wait?

Villefranche-Sur-Mer

If you're looking for a day out beyond Nice or want to sunbathe on a sand(ier) beach, Villefranche-Sur-Mer is lovely. About 20 minutes bus ride from Nice itself, it is a sweet little town with a deep harbour that means cruise ships regularly put down anchors near it. The bus costs just a few euros and although lunch or dinner in one of Villefranche's many restaurants may not be cheap, you can easily pick up a tasty baguette club jambon or tomate chevre in a nearby boulangerie to help save the centimes.



As well as pretty, narrow streets and lush park, Villefranche has a crescent shaped beach which is popular with sunseekers.

Villa St Exupery Gardens

The first time I stayed in Nice, I was lucky enough to stay at Villa St Exupery Gardens. Set in the north of the city, near the stadium, the hostel is regularly voted among the best in Europe. It is great value, in a gorgeous setting, with decent rooms and internet access in the lounge/bar and great views over Nice.
I loved having a coffee in the gardens each morning and reading my book. Even though the hostel was busy when we stayed there, the gardens have enough nooks and crannies for it to feel private and calm.

As it's a little out of the way, the hostel has a couple of mini buses that come and pick you up outside the Casino supermarket at the Comte de Falicon tram stop. While you wait you can check out the gorgeous flower and grocery stalls at the market. I loved these sunflowers and courgettes.


For travellers on a budget, the breakfast at Villa St Exupery, included in the price of the room, is great value. You can fill up on cereals and breads before setting out for a day of sight-seeing.
The staff are really knowledgeable about Nice and the surrounding area and there is a great atmosphere in the bar. It can be quite a party hostel, so if that isn't your thing, beware, but if you're looking to make new friends and enjoy some of the cheapest drinks in the city, get stuck in.
I see the owners have opened another hostel now, closer to the beach and city centre, which I'd love to try one day. (The picture I've posted at the top is the view from my window at Villa St Exupery Gardens.)

Ice cream to melt your heart

How fitting that my first post on La Petite Niçoise is one about food; I had to start by telling you about a gorgeous ice cream parlour in the old town of Nice, Fenocchio's. 

It is famous beyond the city and is featured in most guidebooks about the city - there's a reason for that, it's absolutely wonderful. 

It has dozens of flavours of ice creams, sorbets and granitas. I chose a deux boules cornet with vanilla and rose petal: utterly, delicately delicious. It also serves crepes, milkshakes, little pots of ice cream and every kind of topping you can imagine. 

You sit at plastic tables in stepped-well of Place Rossetti and jostle with the other locals and holiday makers enjoying the cool of the square and the ice cream. It's a perfect afternoon (or any time) treat.